Plato’s Diner sits just outside the grubby fingers of the chain-filled Route 1 strip – a glittering neon-and-steel Mecca for those searching for the kind of home-cooked meal you can’t get at the dining halls.
The restaurant recalls the lived-in feel of your typical New Jersey-style diner, complete with the requisite Hobo Fries ($5.29), the late-night favorite consisting of French fries covered with mozzarella cheese and gravy, sometimes known as Disco Fries. It tastes better than it sounds – I swear.
If you’ve never set foot in a classic diner, check out some episodes of The Sopranos, and observe where the New Jersey gang frequently dined. You’ll recognize the Formica table and countertops and the vinyl-covered stools and booths. These well-worn booths have seen many butts, evidenced by the ones sporting large gashes, stuffing overflowing.
This is not a knock on the place, as this kind of shamble-chic is to be expected at a restaurant of its style. While sitting in the slightly exploded seat may not be comfortable, as a piece of décor it certainly works. The interior is not just filled with the occasional overstuffed cushion, however, as there are several pretty … interesting … choices on the walls.
A large mural covers one wall of the diner, depicting the death of Socrates. Due to some interesting shading, it appears the philosopher has three legs, with the middle one being groped by an onlooker. It’s an interesting wrinkle, to be sure. Of course, there’s much more to Plato’s than its look.
The diner has strong Greek roots, evidenced not only by the choice in mural but also in the types of food offered. Typical fare, such as souvlaki (chicken, lettuce, tomato, onion and tzatziki sauce) sandwiches make appearances, as well as spanakopita (spinach, feta cheese and herbs in phyllo dough).
While there’s a selection of pure Greek dishes, the restaurant also offers a Mediterranean twist on typical diner dishes, such as feta cheese on a burger or the Hercules omelet, featuring gyro meat and feta cheese with tomato and onion ($7.99, served with home fries and toast). All sojourns across the pond considered, Plato’s also does a wonderful job with its American favorites.
Entrees range between $10.59 and $22.59, though most dishes hover around the $15 mark. The entrees come with two vegetables and either a soup or a salad.
Soup at Plato’s was a pleasant surprise. Instead of canned soup topped with some vegetable oil to appear homemade, this soup is the real deal. The chicken noodle, while light on the noodle, was full of vegetables and chicken.
Where many soups fall victim to overly mushy vegetables, the carrots and celery retained much of their crunch, and the broth was perfectly seasoned – the kind of soup you won’t mind slurping down in public untill its last drop. The soup is $2.99 for a cup and $3.99 for a bowl.
The true test of a diner, however, comes from the ultimate American dish, the cheeseburger. Plato’s has the typical cheeseburger and bacon cheeseburger, as well as a traditional patty melt with grilled onions and Thousand Island dressing on grilled rye bread. Burgers run from $6.49 (plain) to $7.99 (the Hellenic Delight burger, topped with parmesan, mozzarella and feta cheeses).
The burger came hot, fresh and juicy, even when ordered medium-well, and perfectly straddled the often difficult line between run-down-your-chin juicy and too dry. Plato’s passed the difficult test of making a good burger with flying colors.
While there are some unusual (and expensive) items on Plato’s menu – New York strip and crab cake ($21.99), for example – many of the items cost about $10 per person. No matter when you wish to sample the diner classics, give Plato’s a try. It’s open untill 1 a.m. Sunday through Thursday, and 24 hours Friday and Saturday.
Tripp.Laino@yahoo.com
