Rating: * * 1/2

Just miles from the campus down Route 1 stood a landmark hardware store, where locals came for appliances, tools and the neighborhood gossip, while sounds of clinking wrenches resonated from the industrial warehouse space.

Fast-forward 14 years, and not much has changed. Friends still gather to gossip here, but now it’s over a meal and a few drinks. Clinking can still be heard, but now it’s from the beer-filled mugs of Maryland students.

If you haven’t yet ventured to Franklin’s, it’s a must. Close, affordable and eclectic, it’s no doubt one of best restaurants in the immediate area.

As a hardware store in its past life, Franklin’s went from being notable at fixing to having particularly notable fixings. Decor is industrial chic with exposed ductwork, brick walls and hints of copper. Service is consistently good, although rarely exceptional.

Stick to ordering its home-style classics. The barbecue is particularly fantastic, and the pulled pork sandwich ($7.59, lunch menu only) is flavorful and meaty with a hearty bun. The hickory-smoked half chicken ($12.99) is mouth-wateringly tender, while the Kansas City sauce is smoky, sweet and slightly tangy.

Garlic mashed potatoes ($2.99 à la carte) are delicious, but not for the timid, with whole cloves of roasted garlic entrenched in buttery whipped potatoes and hints of skin. Buttermilk onion rings ($5.99) arrive in a mountainous heap, beer-battered and golden, but not overly greasy. Corn pudding ($2.99 à la carte) is an absolute standout, sweet with the consistency of stuffing.

Beer aficionados will love Franklin’s for its beer, which is brewed right on the premises by the restaurant’s own brewmaster Charles Noll. There are nearly a dozen different varieties, but English-style Twisted Turtle Pale Ale is the favorite for its crisp and hoppy taste. With so many choices, opt for the sampler, four shots each of a different beer ($4.50), or up to 11 shots ($1.00 additional per shot). Franklin’s also brews their own root beer, so the root beer float ($3.50) is a perfect way to top off a meal.

There are a few things at Franklin’s that could use some work. Coleslaw is soggy and even slightly acrid. Pizzas ($8.99-$11.99) on more than one occasion had to be sent back for being too charred. The Thai appetizer sampler ($10.99) was presented beautifully but lacked authenticity.

Despite the few items on the menu that fall short, Franklin’s exceeds expectations every time. Make sure you take a peek into the kitschy general store while you’re waiting for a seat or a meal. Old-fashioned candy, toys, gifts and hard-to-find varieties of beer and wine are sold here.

FRANKLIN’S AT A GLANCE:

Cuisine: American, Thai, Pizza, Vegetarian

Price: $9-$15 average entree

Distance from Testudo’s Nose: 2.43 miles

Metro Accessible: Yes. Take the Green Line to West Hyattsville station and then the F8 bus to Cheverly, which drops off right at the front door.

Circuit Accessible: No

Reservations: Parties of 6 or more only, not including Fridays and Saturdays

Hours:

Sun., Mon. 11 a.m. – 9 p.m.

Tues. 11 a.m. – 9:30 p.m.

Weds., Thurs. 11 a.m. – 10 p.m.

Fri., Sat. 11 a.m. – 11 p.m.

Parking: Yes, metered lot

Dress: Casual

Money Saver: Free appetizer buffet Thursday nights, all house and bottled beers, house cabernet and chardonnay are $3. $2 cover at the door

– Sara Wald is a junior journalism major who will have a monthly food critic column appear in Diversions.