Although I relish my frequent visits to corporate-owned fast food eateries such as Chipotle, California Tortilla, Taco Bell and Qdoba Mexican Grill, I also hanker for authentic Mexican food from mom-and-pop-run establishments.
And university students are blessed in that we don’t have to get a passport and travel south of the border to get the real deal. Great, traditional food is right near College Park, down Route 193 West in the areas of Langley Park, Takoma Park and Silver Spring.
There’s Peruvian-style roasted chicken joints, hole-in-the-wall pupuserias specializing in the stuffed cornmeal flat bread popular in El Salvador, and strip malls featuring supermarkets declaring the availability of international ingredients.
But Friday I ventured out for one culinary conquest: taco trucks.
Spotting taco trucks on University Boulevard is similar to spotting out-of-state license plates — they can be few and far between. But like winning the classic road-trip game, finding a taco truck brings immense satisfaction.
I almost passed by the inconspicously gray-colored Taqueria La Fiesta truck, which is near Merrimac Drive and is masked by an unmarked side. But luckily, I noticed its awning.
The friendly proprietor, Maria Ramirez, said she has operated the truck for 14 years but still faces inquisitions from local authorities about her business permit. She pulled out her license and permit card to prove to me she was legit.
Not that I cared either way — her tacos are legit enough for me. For $5 I received two: one with freshly griddled strips of beef garnished with chopped cilantro and diced red onions, all resting on two layers of warm, handmade, corn-flour tortillas that sported stripes of char from the griddle.
The other taco featured cooked-to-order beef tongue, a traditional cut of meat in Mexico (people from other cultures aren’t as quesy about offal as Americans), plus the aforementioned toppings. The tacos were surrounded by slices of radish, cucumbers and a lemon wedge.
I’ll refrain from any silly tongue puns and just write that it was almost indistinguishable from the more familiar beef strips, aside from some chewy and cartridge-like pieces.
Both types of beef were tender with a slightly crispy exterior. The soft tortillas had the soul of being made with love by one person in-house, or rather, in-truck. The taste of the cornmeal dough, known as masa, dominated as it does in cornbread or polenta.
It’s amazing what Ramirez does in the cramped confines of a vehicle with a kitchen almost no bigger than a bathroom stall for the handicapped.
And why would I want to sit in a stuffy, no-elbows-on-the-table restaurant when Ramirez, who is as hospitable as a grandmother, invites customers with food ordered “to stay” to sit in the truck’s front seat? Slightly torn leather seats, plus a view via windshield, plus authentic tacos equal a winning atmosphere.
Patrons can enjoy this grungy yet charming ambiance Monday through Saturday, from noon until varying evening times.
A few blocks down the road back toward College Park in Takoma Park, near Anne Street, is where the La Miguelena truck parks. Its extensive menu, which is mounted on the side of the truck, features tacos, quesadillas, burritos, pupusas and hearty meat-centric combo plates. However, not all of the options are available at all times.
Owner Reina Isabel Ramirez said she makes everything at the site with the help of only one other staff member. She said La Miguelena is usually open every day and tacos are the most popular offering. But I opted for the pollo asado — a grilled chicken plate.
The hefty dish is worth more than its $7 cost. I attacked the moist chicken, which was marinated in mild spices reminiscent of oregano and topped with sautéed red onions, with more gastronomic voraciousness than Guy Fieri, Adam Richman and Anthony Bourdain combined.
The meat was pounded thin and grilled to perfection. Its umami flavor was enhanced by the addition of the semi-chunky green chili salsa served on the side. The salsa delivered sharp hints of citrus. I mopped up the excess juices with the two complementary gorditas — thick, fluffy tortillas made with corn flour.
The food I bought from the two trucks was better than the combination platter I ordered from the one restaurant I tried that day: Tijuana Mexican Cafe on 949 East University Boulevard in Silver Spring.
The festively decorated restaurant, one of three locations, seems like a popping place to watch a soccer match. There’s two dining rooms, a few televisions, pull-down projector screens, a bar, plenty of cheesy, plastic palm trees and Corona advertisements.
The menu features a great selection of Latin American classics. I got the Lunch Combo No. 3, which includes a soft beef taco, chicken tamale and greasy, yet crispy, pupusa filled with mashed refried beans.
The taco was rather soggy and its tortilla tasted store-bought and mass-produced, but the pulled pieces of beef stewed in a tomato broth were tasty. And the tamale — served without the corn husk it had been steamed in — was rather gloppy and congealed.
The platter was an overall disappointment, but I still finished it. I mean, it was a ton of food for less than $7, so why not?
My journey down Route 193 West left me with a love jones for Mexican truck food. It’s inexpensive, flavorful and an instant vacation from generic American chains.
arush@umd.edu
